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Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Fall Winter 2013 - 2014: A tale of four cities



Fall Winter 2014: A tale of  four cities

While fashion trends are renewed, altered or forgotten every few months cultural trends endure, with New York, London, Milan and Paris looking to dress within their own country or at least the women who they believe they should be dressing. Interest from the big spending, emerging economies is central to the collections’ success, but for the past two seasons it appears that the four cardinals of fashion have been looking inwards and not outwards. There are of course many trends that transcend borders, in the Fall Winter 2014 yet there is a definite digression of aesthetic from city to city.
Thus the moods of the collections differ from one city to another, with a few overarching themes such as grunge and medieval, now I want to see a die-hard fashionista trying to combine the two and not looking like an extra from Twilight.
Silhouette-wise the camps are firmly divided between forties fit and flare and top heavy oversize volumes, with a few designers choosing to stay neutral with some masculine tailoring with restrained yet oversize shapes.
The overcoat is a protagonist of the Fall Winter 2014 season, being the canvas upon which many designers experiment with cuts, volumes and fabrics. The dress, a firm favourite and an evergreen, which comes up trumps over any trend, is still going strong and graced the runways in many shapes, silhouettes and forms.

The colour palette is firmly anchored in the greys, both as yarn dyes and as prints. Masculine fabrics like herringbone, check, Prince of Wales, and tweed underpin the greyscale of the season. Tartan leads the way with the accent colours such as red, blue and hints of fuchsia. A pretty blush pink, which is warmer than nude but less bright than pink has cropped up in many runways, and amongst the rigour and architecture it acts like a passing reference to the loss of romanticism from the season, and perhaps from our lives.  Finally, winter whites have become increasingly popular over the recent se



Men’s looks adopted in the womenswear sphere are often referred to as structured or sharp or tailored. This season its about shape and dimensions, so very architectural or engineered.


Checks and tartan have made a huge come back this season. Interpreted in classic reds or greys, as well as spruced up in a variety of colours and uses, checks are definitely a trend to embrace come next winter.

With so much fur, the animalistic elements of the collections continued with animal prints emblazoned upon suits, dresses, fur coats and shirts.

Chiffon, organza, charmeuse, are all present in the 2014 Fall Winter collections and will satisfy the needs of any womanly woman. Sheer, printed or embroidered, flowing silky fabrics are in.

Luxurious embroidery on pretty dresses makes most women swoon. For the Fall Winter 2014 season there were plenty of reasons for magpies to shriek with excitement in front of shimmering crystals and pearls. Embroidery this season was also scaled back to its original meaning, with beautiful stitched embroideries.

Its official, grey is the new black! Fashion has been hinting that grey is the must have colour for a few season, but for those of us who pay attention to menswear we knew that the Fall Winter 2014 colour was going to be grey.

Pretty flower prints are a surprising addition to the Fall Winter 2014 collections. Largely multi-coloured roses are printed on organza and satin as well as jacquard, knits and even leather.

Trend-setters have been looking back through the ages visiting the 50s and 60s several times, the 70s and the 80s and even hints of 90s. A look some designers have been toying with for a while has now taken over the runways, the40s. The looks are feminine, elegant yet restrained, and firmly anchored in wartime Europe.

Grunge, yes, its back and its very controversial. Classic labels have been redefined with strong grunge elements this season causing quite a stir. To get the look: leather biker jacket, boots and an angry expression.

In stark contrast to the 40s, and the grunge and the architectural, many designers throughout the cities have been wooed by the medieval damsel look. Is fashion hinting that we need to be recued from the tower?

Of course with Grunge being an important overarching trend, the presence of leather on this list is not surprising. This season though leather is not confined to biker jackets, but has been fashioned into suits, dresses, skirts and coats.

The arguments of animal rights activists have been ignored and the Fall Winter 2014 catwalks were a veritable menagerie of furs. Antelope, mink, ermine, and fox were all present. Fur however became also a medium for experimentation with many items being far removed from the traditional fur coat.

Metallics are as strong as ever this season. Shimmering, almost wet fabrics with hints of lurex ebbed and flowed down the catwalk in a river of molten silver and gold.

Accent colours this season are primary: red and blue. Electric bluenavy and dark azure shades contrast withblood redburgundy and lacca red on the opposite side of the scale.

A testament to the Forties feel of the collections, the skirt suit is an undisputed protagonist of the runways. Some of these outfits are made more special by the fit and flared skirt, which adds movement to the silhouette, while some oversize or over long blazers play with dimensions making the suits feel thoroughly modern.

The architectural feel of the season is no more visible than in the new sleeves. Oversize, top-heavy silhouettes are dominant and the sleeves prove to be the linchpin of the looks. Wide, tapered, raglan or padded, sleeves are structured and give a contemporary feel to any outfit.

Maybe because of the masculine tailoring, or because of the Forties feel, tailoring fabrics like pin stripes and Prince of Wales check are fashioned into suits, dresses, capes and even culottes.

I’ve often thought that there is noting chicer than wearing white in winter. This season we have plenty of opportunities, with white contaminating outerwear, dresses, tailoring and accessories.


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